PQD 20:
A six button cotton cloth jacket with two-piece adjustable collar with tab to button, semi-peaked lapels to be worn open, or closed with button and buttonhole, and a one-piece back with stitched on belt, (side body to side body) and side pleats; furnished with diagonal pockets (inside hanging) with flaps to button, slide fastener to close front in addition to buttons and buttonholes, adjusting tabs to button, at cuff of sleeves and bottom of jacket. The jacket is lined with flannel (body and sleeves).
PQD 20A & 20B:
A six or seven button jacket, depending upon length, with a two-piece adjustable collar with tab to button, semi‐peaked lapels, one-piece back with stitched on belt (side body to side body) and side plaits; two diagonal inside hanging pockets, slide fastener to close front in addition to buttons and buttonholes; adjustable tabs to button at cuff of sleeves and bottom of jacket; on each shoulder a loop of same material as the coat let in at the sleeve head seam and reaching to approximately ¾ inch of collar, buttoning at the upper end. Loops to be about 2½ inches in width at lower end and 1½ inches in width at collar end, and cross-stitched down to shoulder for a distance of about 1½ inches from lower end. All button to be olive-drab 24 ligne.
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This jacket was designed for field & combat use in temperate climates during cool and cold conditions. It was typically worn with other components of the winter field uniform, such as wool trousers and wool shirt. In addition, it was worn with most other types of uniforms when a jacket was needed, such as herringbone twill uniforms and cotton khaki uniforms. Designated a field garment, it was worn by both officers and enlisted men.
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13 November 1939 ‐ Chief of Staff authorizes the War Department Uniform Board to develop a field jacket to replace the service coat.
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September 1940 - Approval given for 15,000 test jackets to be ordered for widespread testing in the US.
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7 October 1940 - Specification date for test jackets.
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26 November 1940 - Orders placed for test jackets.
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24 January 1941 - Specification PQD 20. First mass produced jacket.
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6 May 1941 - Specification PQD 20A. Major revisions implemented to improve fit and function. Jacket gets new look with shoulder loops added and pocket flaps removed.
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17 March 1942 - Specification PQD 20B. Revised jacket sometimes made with various substitute standard materials.
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7 July 1943 - Last orders placed for the Olive-drab Field Jacket.
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11 September 1943 - Olive-drab field jacket declared limited standard - issue until exhausted.
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Total Jackets Delivered (All Types & Manufacturers):
Procuring Station:
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Philadelphia Quartermaster Depot, 2800 South 20th Street, Philadelphia, PA. (Station No. 669).
Contracts issued from approximately 26 November 1940 to 7 July 1943.
Approximate Contract Award Dates:
- Specification Dated 7 Oct 1940:
26 November 1940.
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Specification PQD 20:
28 February 1941 to 1 April 1941.
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Specification PQD 20A:
22 September 1941 to 19 March 1942.
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Specification PQD 20B:
2 April 1942 to 7 July 1943.
Common Contractors:
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Breslee Manufacturing Corp., New York, NY.
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Hillsdale Manufacturing Co., Hillsdale, MI.
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John Rissman & Son, Chicago, IL & Danville, IL.
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London Clothing Corp., North Abington, MA
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Philmac Sportswear, Inc., Trenton, NJ.
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Paul Reed Co., Milwaukee, WI
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S. Liebovitz & Sons Inc., New York, NY & Knoxville, TN.
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South River Coat Co., South River, NJ.
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Spaide Shirt Co., Butler, PA.
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Specification Dated 7 Oct 1940:
- Pocket Flaps.
- Lining constructed using 10½ - ounce serge wool shirting in
olive-drab shade 31.
- Made with 5-oz. twill or 5-oz. poplin
outer shell.
- V-shaped back panel.
- Two-button hip adjustment tabs.
Specification PQD 20:
- Pocket flaps.
- Dark brown flannel lining w/raised nap.
- V-shaped back panel.
- Two-button hip adjustment tabs.
Specification PQD 20A:
- Underarm gussets.
- Shoulder loops.
- Slash pockets without button flaps.
- Three-button hip adjustments.
- Cloth size label on inside nape.
- V or H-shaped back panel.
- Wrist adjustment button
moved near back arm seam.
- Lower set collar.
- Made in regular & long sizes.
- Green or OD flannel lining with short nap.
Specification PQD 20B:
- H-shaped back panel.
- Wider back panel & rear belt.
- Underarm gussets.
- Slash pockets.
- Three-button hip adjustments.
- Cloth size label on inside nape.
- Shoulder loops.
- Wrist adjustment button
moved near back arm seam.
- Lower set collar.
- Made in regular & long sizes.
- Green or OD flannel lining with short nap.
- Some jacket shells made with
substitute standard 8-oz. cotton twill fabric.
- Frequent use of substitute standard
steel alloy zippers.
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Shell Fabric:
Specification dated 7 Oct 1940:
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5-ounce cotton twill
(Cloth, Cotton, Wind-Resistant; specification dated 20 August 1940).
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5-ounce cotton poplin
(Cloth, Cotton, Wind Resistant; specification dated 24 Sept. 1940).
Specifications PQD 20 & 20A:
- 5-ounce cotton poplin
(Cloth, Cotton, Wind Resistant; specification PQD No. 1, 13 December 1940)
Specification PQD 20B:
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5-ounce wind-resistant & water-repellent cotton poplin, olive-drab shade 2.
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8.2-ounce Khaki Twill
(Substitute Standard).
Lining Fabric:
Specification dated 7 Oct. 1940:
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Wool, Serge, Shirting, 10½-ounce, Olive-drab, 51-56-inch.
Specifications PQD 20, 20A, &20B:
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Flannel, Shirting, Olive-drab, 10½-ounce, 56-inch shrunk
(Specifications 8-54 to 8-54C, 1939 to 42).
Slide Fasteners:
All jackets equipped with a front opening slide fastener fabricated from nickel, brass, or steel alloy. Makers include Conmar, Crown, Kwik, Prentice, & Talon.
Buttons:
Specifications 7 Oct. 1940 & PQD 20:
18 total 24-ligne buttons:
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Collar - 2.
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Front opening - 6.
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Pockets - 1 each.
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Cuffs - 2 each.
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Hips - 2 each.
Specifications PQD 20 & 20B:
20 total 24-ligne buttons:
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Shoulder loops - 1 each.
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Collar - 2.
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Front opening - 6.
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Cuffs - 2 each.
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Hips - 3 each.
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Size Label:
Specification 7 Oct 1940 & PQD 20:
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Chest size ink stamped onto the lining below the collar.
Specifications PQD 20A & 20B:
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1½-inch square label sewn onto the lining below the collar. Chest size & length printed on label with indelible ink.
Specification PQD 20B:
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Small loop of fabric tape attached between lining and collar at the back of the jacket. Chest size & length either ink stamped or embroidered onto fabric tape.
Contractor Label:
All Types:
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1½-inch x 2¾-inch label sewn to the inside of the right pocket. Name of contractor, date & number of contract, specification number, stock number, & name of contracting office printed on label with indelible ink.
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Jackets made at the Philadelphia Quartermaster Depot had a similar label as described above but with the only wording present being Philadelphia Quartermaster Depot and a line for inspector's initials.
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Jacket, Field, Olive-drab (Substitute Standard) - These jackets were made with an outer shell of cotton twill instead of the usual poplin. This fabric often had a khaki color instead of the usual greenish color of olive-drab shade 2 cotton poplin. Large quantities of these jackets were procurred from various contractors in April 1942 under specification PQD 20B.
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Jacket, Field, Olive-drab, Arctic (Specification PQD 97 dated 6 Oct 1941, Stock No. 55-J-330 to 371) - This jacket is often mistaken for the olive-drab field jacket and was similar in appearance to specification PQD 20A. The main differences are this jacket is longer, extending just over the hips, and was cut fuller to fit over sweaters and other warm garments. The outer shell was cotton twill and the lining made of a heavier kersey wool. The hip & wrist adjustment tabs were a sliding buckle type instead of button tabs. This jacket was issued in numbers during the Aleutian Campaign of 3 June 1942 to 15 August 1943.
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Regulation Field Jackets (various makers) - These jackets were, for the most part, manufactured for sale to officers at retail outlets. The quality of these jackets varied greatly. Some had improvements over the issue jacket, such as added shoulder loops on the early pattern jacket, removable liners, inside pockets, and heavier fabrics.
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Not Applicable.
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Enlisted Men:
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Shoulder Sleeve Insignia: Army, Division, Corps, Command, and other unit identifying patches were worn on the left sleeve 2-inches from the top of the shoulder.
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Rank Insignia: Chevrons sewn on both sleeves, midway between the shoulder and elbow.
Officers:
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Shoulder Sleeve Insignia: Army, Division, Corps, Command, and other unit identifying patches were worn on the left sleeve 2-inches from the top of the shoulder.
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Rank insignia: Attached to shoulder loops, centered on the cross-stitched section near the shoulder seam.
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Preceded By:
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Coats, Wool, Serge, Olive-drab, 18-ounce (Specification QMC 8-31D, dated 7 Feb 1940, Stock No. 55-C-69299 to 69510).
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Coats, Service, Officers', (Specification QMC 8-28B, dated 19 January 1940).
Superseded By:
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Jackets, Field, M-1943
(Specification PQD 370B, dated 9 July 1943).
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Inter-Service Use:
US Army Nurse Corps:
Standard men's field jacket was issued to nurses until adoption of Jackets, Field, M-1943, Women's (Spec. PQD 407, dated 29 November 1943).
US Navy & Marine Corps:
Both Navy ground personnel & Marines wore the field jacket. When the Army adopted the M-1943 field jacket, the Navy developed its own version of the field jacket in 1943 called Jackets, Field, N-4 because it felt the shorter jacket was more appropriate for its needs. The Marine Corps adopted both the original field jacket and M-1943 field jacket as standard issue items. Some Marine Corps issued jackets can be identified by a "USMC" ink stamp along the inside front facing.
Equivalents:
Army:
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Jacket, Field, Enlisted Men
(ETO Specifications U/1180 & U/1180A).
Napped wool, waist-length jacket issued to soldiers stationed on the English continent. Shared various design features with the standard US field jacket.
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Jacket, Field, Officers
(ETO Specifcations U/1387 & modifications A through C).
Waist-length jacket issued to officers stationed on the English continent. Made with officer grade wool exterior and shared various design features with the standard US field jacket.
US Navy:
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Jackets, Field, N-4
(Spec. No. 55-J-12).
Similar to the standard Army field jacket but without shoulder loops & wrist and hip adjustment tabs.
USMC:
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Jacket, Field, Women's Reserve (Specification adopted 1944).
Similar to issue field jacket but with buttons on opposite side.
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Enlisted Men (Mandatory Allowance):
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Table of Basic Allowances No. 21 dated 1 October 1941:
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Mobility & Peace - 1 field jacket per enlisted man except in tropics.
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Table of Basic Allowances No. 21 dated 23 February 1942:
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Mobility & Peace - 1 field jacket per enlisted man except in tropics; 1 jacket per enlisted man in Hawaii.
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Table of Basic Allowances No. 21 dated 7 January 1943:
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Mobility - 1 jacket per enlisted man except in tropics, arctic, sub-arctic stations and except enlisted men in mountain division. 1 jacket per enlisted men in Hawaii and Iceland.
Officers & Warrant Officers (Mandatory Purchase):
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Table of Basic Allowances No. 21 dated 7 January 1943:
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Mobility - 1 jacket per officer and warrant officer.
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The olive-drab field jacket appeared in all theaters of operations during WW2.
- Mediterranean Theater of Operations:
The olive-drab field jacket was standard issue item until replaced by the M-1943 field jacket.
- European Theater of Operations:
The olive-drab field jacket was standard issue item until replaced by the M-1943 field jacket.
- Pacfic Theater of Operations:
The olive-drab field jacket was not a standard issue item in the Southwest Pacific, but its use became more prevalent during the later stages of the Pacific War when operations moved into northern areas.
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Reproductions: A longtime favorite of re-enactors, the M-1941 field jacket has been heavily reproduced over the years. Accuracy of these reproductions has improved steadily over time. Older reproductions are easily recognized by inferior and inaccurate materials, zippers, and labeling. More recent reproductions generally use materials, zippers and buttons that are more faithful to the originals. As the newer jackets age, they could pose a problem for new collectors seeking original examples. Therefore, careful attention should be paid to the detail of zippers, buttons, and labeling conventions found on original jackets. Familiarity with these details will enable one to readily distinguish originals from reproductions. Most materials used in the jacket are possible to reproduce accurately apart from the zipper. In general, reproducing zippers or installing original zippers would not be a cost-effective endeavor for makers of reproduction field jackets. So, careful attention should be paid to familiarize oneself with the characteristics of period zippers. There is a basic introduction to these traits contained in slides 19 to 21 in the presentation above.
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Wear Patterns & Field Repairs: Many original field jackets were heavily worn and often show characteristic cuff and neck deterioration or repairs to these areas. Repaired jackets will exhibit taken up cuffs, strips of new material sewn around the cuffs, darning, patches on the collar, or even entire collars replaced. These were common repair methods used by Quartermaster repair and salvage operations.
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War Department. Army Regulations No. 600-40. Personnel: Wearing of Service Uniform. 28 August 1941. Washington, D.C.: United States Government Printing Office, 1941.
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War Department. Army Regulations No. 600-35. Personnel: Prescribed Service Uniform. 10 November 1941. (Including changes No. 7 dated 8 December 1942). Washington, D.C.: United States Government Printing Office, 1941.
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War Department. Army Regulations No. 615-40. Enlisted Men: Clothing and Equipage. 24 April 1943. Washington, D.C.: United States Government Printing Office, 1943.
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War Department. Table of Basic Allowances No. 21. Quartermaster Clothing And Individual Equipment. 23 February 1942. Washington, D.C.: Office Of The Quartermaster General, 1942.
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War Department. Table of Basic Allowances No. 21. Quartermaster Clothing And Individual Equipment. 7 January 1943. Washington, D.C.: United States Government Printing Office, 1943.
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Associated Military Stores. Silver Anniversary Catalogue of Army Officers Uniforms. Chicago, IL, 1942.
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Risch, Erna. The Quartermaster Corps: Organization, Supply, Services, Volume I. Center Of Military History, United States Army, Washington, D.C., 1995.
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Richardson, Eudora Ramsay; Allan, Sherman. Quartermaster Supply in the European Theater of Operations In World War II (Volume III, Outfitting The Soldier). The Quartermaster School, Camp Lee, Virgina, 1948.
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Care: Original field jackets require some basic knowledge for proper care. Most is centered on the fact the lining is wool. Because of this, the jacket should never be washed and only be dry cleaned to avoid shrinkage resulting in an ill-fitting or distorted jacket. Additionally, the lining is subject to moth and other insect damage and thus should kept away from any potential pests and preferably covered. Note that if a jacket retains its original size or contract label, any washing or dry cleaning will rapidly deteriorate these labels. Many field jackets were made using steel zippers that are subject to corrosion. These zippers can be identified with a positive attraction to a magnet. Care should be taken to keep these zippers clean and dry and should be operated cautiously as they tend to be stiff and hang up easily.
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Charbonnier, Philippe; Gawne, Jonathan. The Field Jacket of the American Army 1941-43 (Part 1). Militaria Magazine Number 324, (Pgs. 2-10), 2018.
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Charbonnier, Philippe; Gawne, Jonathan. The Field Jacket of the American Army 1941-43 (Part 2). Militaria Magazine Number 326, (Pgs. 58-69), 2018.
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War Department. Army Regulations No. 30-3000. Quartermaster Corps Price List of Clothing and Equipage Effective 1 July 1943. Washington D.C.: United States Government Printing Office, 31 August 1943.
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War Department. Index of United States Army And Federal Specifications Used By The War Department. United States Government Printing Office: (1939, 1940, 1941, 1942 inclusive).
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Ross, William F. & Romanus, Charles F. United States Army in World War II - The Technical Services - The Quartermaster Corps: Operations In The War Against Germany. Washington, D.C.: Center of Military History, United States Army, 1991.
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Risch, Erna & Pitkin, Thomas M. Historical Section Office of The Quartermaster General. Clothing the Soldier of World War II. Q.M.C. Historical Studies No. 16, September, 1946. Washington, D.C.: United States Government Printing Office, 1946.
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Civilian Production Administration, Industrial Statistics Division, Alphabetical Listing of Major War Supply Contracts, (Culmulative June 1940 Through September 1945), 1946.
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Stanton, Shelby. U.S. Army Uniforms of World War II. Mechanicsburg, Pa: Stackpole Books, 1991.
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Lemons, Charles. Uniforms of the US Army Ground Forces 1939-1945; Volume 1, Coats and Jackets; Part I, Service Coats, Field Jackets, Overcoats and Mackinaw Coats. ISBN 978-1-105-45482-0. Charles R. Lemons, 2012.
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stealthytyler, et al. Olive Drab No. 2? U.S. Militaria Forum, Posts 1 to 18, 4 August 2015 to 11 January 2018.
https://www.usmilitariaforum.com/forums/ index.php?/topic/246359-olive-drab-no-2/
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Haggard, John V. Q.M.C. Historical Studies, Series II, No. 1. Manufacture Of Clothing 1945-55. Historical Branch Office Of The Quartermaster General. Washington, D.C.: 1956.
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